Just getting to Ouarzazate was an adventure in itself. The journey there definitely didn't happen as planned. Instead of landing at that far away destination in a plane, we found ourselves arriving there late at night after driving over the Atlas Mountains from Marrakech due a cancelled Royal Air Maroc flight that stranded us in Casablanca. That's a fun and colorful story in itself, but I need to get back to the Sahara story.
Despite the quick change in travel plans, we did get to Ouarzazate in time to meet our guide, who drove us to to Mhamid, the last village on the edge of the desert, where our Sahara odyssey began.
Our hosts served us a scrumptious lunch before piling us into a well-used Land Rover for an afternoon drive to the Sacred Oasis of Oum Laalag, where we spent the night and changed our method of transport from vehicle to camel. That night we spent our first night under the Sahara stars.
As the setting sun disappeared below the western horizon, the oven hot desert temperatures immediately began to abate. A light breeze blew up and helped cool the evening. Again, our hosts spread a small feast out for us consisting of tagine, freshly 
baked bread, the ever present sweet mint tea and other tasty morsels. After dinner, our guides brought armloads of rugs and blankets out into the center of the oasis and prepared sleeping pallets for us. After our long adventurous day, they felt as comfortable as our bed at home. No sooner had I laid my head upon my pillow than I fell into a deep sleep. Some hours later, about midnight I think, I awoke. I was on my back. As I slowly became aware of my surroundings, I couldn't believe what I was seeing. There was no ambient light to dim the sight above me. The sky was alive. Millions of stars brightly shined against the velvety black celestial backdrop. From horizon to horizon, the heavens poured rivers of twinkling while lights across the black sky canvas. I lay there for some time just taking in the spectacle. I was awestruck. This was what I had come for, or at least a big part of what I had come for, and I was not disappointed. As I lay beneath my warm blanket, I felt as if a vortex was pulling me up into the stars, planets, constellations and solar systems. The Milky Way, a solid white starlit skyway, slashed its way across the heavens. I didn't want to close my eyes to return to my slumber. Yet I felt so safe, so warm, so relaxed and so much a part of everything around me that I slowly slipped back into sleep. The next time I opened my eyes morning was approaching. The starry carpet still stretched across the awakening sky, but daylight was forcing its retreat.
baked bread, the ever present sweet mint tea and other tasty morsels. After dinner, our guides brought armloads of rugs and blankets out into the center of the oasis and prepared sleeping pallets for us. After our long adventurous day, they felt as comfortable as our bed at home. No sooner had I laid my head upon my pillow than I fell into a deep sleep. Some hours later, about midnight I think, I awoke. I was on my back. As I slowly became aware of my surroundings, I couldn't believe what I was seeing. There was no ambient light to dim the sight above me. The sky was alive. Millions of stars brightly shined against the velvety black celestial backdrop. From horizon to horizon, the heavens poured rivers of twinkling while lights across the black sky canvas. I lay there for some time just taking in the spectacle. I was awestruck. This was what I had come for, or at least a big part of what I had come for, and I was not disappointed. As I lay beneath my warm blanket, I felt as if a vortex was pulling me up into the stars, planets, constellations and solar systems. The Milky Way, a solid white starlit skyway, slashed its way across the heavens. I didn't want to close my eyes to return to my slumber. Yet I felt so safe, so warm, so relaxed and so much a part of everything around me that I slowly slipped back into sleep. The next time I opened my eyes morning was approaching. The starry carpet still stretched across the awakening sky, but daylight was forcing its retreat. After we awoke and enjoyed a tasty morning meal, it was time to begin the camel trek. The cameleers brought the camels to the entrance of the oasis, saddled them and packed our gear into the Saharan version of panniers. After a short primer on camel etiquette and riding, we mounted our beasts and then held on while they rocked to their feet. Camel riding must be an acquired taste, and I don't think I mastered it very well. Our saddles sat almost on the animal's rumps. Their gait was difficult to get used to, and the saddles were unforgiving despite the 
blankets piled atop them. After about an hour's ride, we came to a small oasis and stopped for some water. Following the short break, I opted to walk along with the cameleers rather than remount. We traveled until about 11:30 when I noticed one of the Nomads scanning the horizon looking for something.
blankets piled atop them. After about an hour's ride, we came to a small oasis and stopped for some water. Following the short break, I opted to walk along with the cameleers rather than remount. We traveled until about 11:30 when I noticed one of the Nomads scanning the horizon looking for something."Que cherchez-vous," I asked. He was looking for a tree. Over the next hour I learned that we were looking for a large tree under which to spend the next several hours, the hottest part of the day. It would be too hot for us to be out in the desert in the midday sun. The tree appeared, the cameleers took the gear off the camels, hobbled them, and left them to find their own place to rest. Again, our hosts prepared us a traditional lunch, tagine, le pain de sable (bread baked in the sand) and hot mint tea. It seemed a bit odd that were were eating a hot meal in the intense heat, but they explained to us that our bodies actually reacted well to it. We didn't argue. The meal was terrific. After lunch, we all stretched out on rugs in the shade of the big tree and napped.
About 3:00, the Nomads stirred. They said we would be getting going again. It was a few hours trek to our overnight bivouac, the famed Chgaga Dunes. The afternoon walk in the desert was actually pleasant. Our shashes kept the direct sun off of us, but were not burdensome. It was very hot and we perspired continuously, but our hosts had plenty of water along for the trek and they urged us to drink it frequently. As the sun began to sink toward the western horizon, we arrived at our destination for the day.
The Chgaga Dunes were spectacular in the late afternoon light. We took off our shoes, grabbed our cameras and took off exploring while the Nomads made camp and began preparing our evening meal.
Our supper was predictably good. Following it, our hosts spread rugs out on the sand, took out their drums and sang. It was quite an experience sitting at the base of the massive dunes, low light emanating from a couple of candle lamps, listening to the spirited Arabic melodies.
That night my sleep was just like that 
of the previous night, only I kept myself awake longer in the middle of the night watching the sky. It was alive with activity. The stars twinkled. An occasional shooting star flew across the panorama. Satellites flashed as they traveled their lofty assigned paths.
of the previous night, only I kept myself awake longer in the middle of the night watching the sky. It was alive with activity. The stars twinkled. An occasional shooting star flew across the panorama. Satellites flashed as they traveled their lofty assigned paths. Our adventure in the Sahara was an experience we still talk fondly about today. The only problem with ticking off items from the list is that we have then done them, and we no longer can look forward to that new experience. But the list still contains many adventures we can look forward to - and we do!
No comments:
Post a Comment